For years Ferrari-Carano has been like a rock, producing 
substantial wines that didn’t move wine lovers one way or the other. The most-often heard knock was that Ferrari-Carano’s show-case estate in the upper Dry Creek Valley was more show than go, and that the wines were good but not exciting, and the whites were over-oaked.
Justified or not, that was then and this is now. Recent changes at Ferrari-Carano portend exciting things for the future, offering new reasons for wine consumers to take a new look at Ferrari-Carano wines. A few years ago, the Caranos built a stunning new 
winery in the mountains above Alexander Valley, specifically for red wines, including the exciting new “Previal” blends, fashioned by Aaron Piotter, Ferrari-Carano’s new red winemaker.
Don Carano also felt the white wines needed revamping, so Sarah Quider was hired on as the white wine maker (though she also dabbles in Pinot Noir). From the beginning, one of her goals in re-shaping Ferrari-Carano’s line of white wines was to add the “Vineyard Select Collection” of Russian River Valley Chardonnays. Produced in small quantities, the collection includes five wines, all essentially made and aged the same way: 
whole cluster pressed, cold settled for two days, with half the wine put through malolactic fermentation and each sur lie aged and stirred in French oak barrels. The difference, says Quider, is that each wine shows its individual site characteristics. ‘Our goal was to find unique sites than showcase their differences,’ says Quider. ‘It all comes down to vineyard site,’ she adds.
As for winemaking, Quider admits the differences are mainly nuances, but she decided early on that the oak-aging regimen would be different from the Ferrari-Carano Alexander Valley Chardonnay. “We only use French oak from one cooper for the Alexander Valley Chardonnay, but with these Vineyard Select wines, I expanded the oak profile, using French oak barrels from up to 15 different coopers.”
It’s a juggling act for today’s young winemakers and I’d say that Quider is nimbly keeping all the balls in the air at one time. I like the way that Quider has kept a handle on the oak, especially new oak, in all five of the Russian River Chardonnays, allowing the fruit and distinct characteristics (albeit subtle in a few wines) to shine through.
I like all five Chardonnays, but my two favorites are the Fiorella (92 points), with its delicate floral and citrus flavors, zesty acidity and good length, and the Mill Station (92 points) that sings with ripe pear and vanilla flavors, showing great structure and length. Close, but lacking the clearly-defined flavors and balance of Fiorella and Mill Station is Tre Terre (90 points), an opulent Chardonnay with peachy-floral notes and very good oak integration. Riper, with more fig and mineral tones is Emelia’s Cuvee (89 points), followed by Dominique (88 points), showing lovely peach flavors with hints of nutmeg and a creamy texture
The Ferrari-Carano Vineyard Select Collection Chardonnays range in price from $30 to $38 and are available in selected markets. If you want to experience cutting edge California Chardonnay, look for these new Ferrari-Carano vineyard select wines.
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