Today, serviceable varietal wines under $15 are plentiful, especially from New World wineries. Problem is, many of the Chardonnays taste like Sauvignon Blanc, the Merlots have more in common with Syrah than Cabernet Sauvignon and more than a few Cabernets are simple and herbal. And don’t get me started on Pinot Noir.
“What do I want for fifteen bucks,” you ask? Well, to start, if the wine has a grape name on the label, I want the wine to taste like 
it was made from that grape. I’d also like a little body and texture, which I don’t think is too much to ask. And then there’s the old alcohol bugaboo. At this affordable price point, I see no need for extended grape hang time, resulting in layers of concentrated flavors and high alcohols. Winemakers hate to hear this whine, but my take is that wine consumers are looking for more moderate alcohol levels in their everyday wines.
So, what to do? Well, there are numerous ways a winemaker has to produce a pleasant red or white varietal wine that will fit most consumers’ budgets, such as creative blending. Australian winemakers, like those of Penfolds of South Australia, are masters at multi-regional blending: the practice of sourcing compatible fruit from many regions, big and small, and then putting together the lots to make a seamless wine that emphasizes varietal character, balance and drinkability.
Penfolds, the guardian of Australia’s iconic “Grange” Shiraz, has an admirable reputation for quality red wines. In 1976, the Penfolds’ winemaking team was pondering what to do with an abundance of high quality grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, so they decided to blend the two varieties, name the blend Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet, and sell the wine for two dollars a bottle. It was an unwitting Aussie version of the highly successful California “Two Buck Chuck.”
Koonunga Hill takes its name from the Koonunga Hill Vineyard in the Barossa Valley, but today Penfolds sources grapes from such noted vineyard areas in South Australia as Coonawarra, Padthaway and McLaren Vale. A few Koonunga Hill wines carry the South Eastern Australia appellation, a huge “super region” that takes in all of South Australia, Victoria, New South Wales and Queensland. Over two decades the price of Koonuga Hill wines has gone up and the collection has expanded, but the quality of these wines remains excellent.
The latest release of six Koonunga Hill wines, all priced under $12 
is a tasty example of the art of multi-regional blending and none of the wines is over 14% alcohol. Based firmly on red wines, the Koonunga Hill collection also includes a Chardonnay, sourced mainly from the cool Adelaide Hills and Barossa Valley. Penfolds South Australia Koonunga Hill Chardonnay 2006 is crisp, with light citrus-peachy flavors, subtle hints of French oak and a fruity vanilla crème finish.
Rounding out the collection are five red wines, including two standard Aussie blends: Cabernet Merlot and Shiraz Cabernet. Penfolds South Australia Koonunga Hill Merlot 2005 has lovely black cherry and plum flavors with cedar accents and a dry finish. Penfolds South Australia Koonunga Hill Cabernet Merlot 2005 shows the structure of Cabernet and the fruit of Merlot, nicely blended with just a hint of oak, fine tannins and a balanced finish. Penfolds South Eastern Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 is lean and lively with medium-bodied fruit, 
refined ripe tannins and a long dry finish. Penfolds South Eastern Australia Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2005 is a lovely wine showing roasted coffee, black fruits and anise, with dark chocolate in the lingering finish. Penfolds South Eastern Australia Koonunga Hill Shiraz 2005 is a medium-bodied wine with lively ripe raspberry aromas and flavors, accented with hints of coffee and mocha. The fruity flavors are supported by ripe tannins and a hint of dark chocolate.
With the holidays approaching, a Koonunga Hill six-pack for the reasonable price of $71 is sure to put a smile on the face of any wine drinker. I know it did mine.
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