Gerald Boyd’s Thanksgiving Picks

Nov 19, 2007 | Blog

[WRO Readers:  We’ll be publishing Thanksgiving wine recommendations in this space each day until the holiday–sometimes posting several contributions during a single day–so stay tuned!  Ed.]

Every November, Americans load up the groaning table with all manner of foods that range from light to heavy, savory to sweet and bland to spicy.  Selecting a wine that blends in with all those flavors and textures is a challenge for any wine drinker. 

Turkey tops the list of main meats on the traditional table, but the over-plumped bird with its white and dark meats is not for everyone.  Some would rather tuck into a cut of red meat that usually calls for a substantial red wine.  Then there are those folks who like a holiday ham, or fish. 

The Thanksgiving table at which I find myself each year features roast turkey with all the fixins, although my daughter-in-law and her sister opt for Tofurkey, an ersatz ‘bird’ that has its admirers.  My wine choice for turkey (and Tofurkey), both white and dark, and most of the various side dishes (I mean, what the hell do you match with candied yams and marshmallows?), is a fruity red based on Pinot Noir.  Here’s a Burgundian Pinot I rated recently that is both reasonably priced and tasty:

Louis Jadot, Bourgogne (France) Pinot Noir 2005 ($20, Kobrand):  Pinot lovers generally agree that this wine is an ideal match with the traditional Thanksgiving turkey dinner.  The beauty is, this juicy easy-drinking red will also go nicely with heavier meats like prime rib.  Louis Jadot has just the wine in this juicy richly-textured Pinot, from the Cote d’Or and Cote Chalonnaise, priced at a reasonable $20.  Brilliant medium ruby in color, the aromatics are intense cranberry and spice, while the lush flavors lean more to tangy cherry-berry.  It’s structured with firm refined tannins and layers of forward fruit.  This is a great value and should be enjoyed while it’s young and vibrant, say on the Thanksgiving table on Thursday.  92

Shafer Merlot might also work nicely with turkey dark meat, gravy and a mildly seasoned dressing.  Even better, the juicy fruitiness of this excellent wine goes nicely with a slab of prime rib or a lamb roast with rosemary and rosti:

Shafer, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2005 ($46):  This full-bodied Merlot has gobs of ripe fruit and a medley of grace notes that add to the wine.  The tempered balance avoids the plumpness of many California Merlots and for that we can give thanks.  The aromas are redolent of smoky oak, coupled with anise, blackberry and cherry that follow through to the palate, where traces of dark chocolate and ripe dark fruits are more dominant.  The finish is long and firm, with supple tannins.  Shafer red wines have earned considerable acclaim and deserve a place on any holiday table, especially if the menu includes beef or lamb.  95

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