I’ve always admired winemakers who are never satisfied with excellence. Craig Williams of Joseph Phelps comes to mind. No matter how good it was, Williams always believed he could make the Phelps Insignia better.
He was right. Over the years the Phelps crew has tweaked its grape sourcing and steadily improved an already wonderful product.
The same determination and vision can be applied to high-end spirits. I’ve always favored Bowmore among the Islay malts. When I’m in the mood for a smoky single-malt Scotch, the Bowmore 17-year-old calls out to me. It’s smoother than the more heavily peated Islay malts and never quite as intensely smoky as the Lagavulin, which is usually my choice if the Bowmore isn’t available.
But Bowmore has now replaced the 17-year-old (it’s available only at duty free) with an 18-year-old and I’m nothing short of stunned by the difference. The new Bowmore delivers a lovely array of dried fruits on the palate, with a sweet, almost viscous mouthfeel and a long, sweet, smooth finish.
Yes, that extra year makes a huge difference, as does the additional time in sherry casks. To my nose the Bowmore 18 ($85) is a bit less smoky, too. What knocks me out is the finesse and complexity, which I would normally associate with a single-malt of 25 years or older. Bravo!
Wonder what they’ll think of next?
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