Prosecco is a fun wine, but sweet and unserious, whereas true 
Champagne is the only sparkler that offers true complexity and class, right?
Wrong, and wrong again.
For a case in double-counterpoint, try Maschio dei Cavalieri’s non-vintage Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut. Priced at a modest $19 and imported by VB Imports, it is close to as good as Prosecco gets, and high-end Prosecco can be very good indeed.
Many winemakers in the Treviso region (northwest of Venice, 
where Prosecco is king) believe that the Prosecco grape is at its best when finished with significant sweetness at the Extra Dry level or as an outright sweet wine under the Cartizze designation. Although this is the majority opinion, it is not a unanimous one in the district, and this is a wine that presents a very strong argument for the school of thought that believes Prosecco can succeed as an essentially dry wine.
Prosecco is an aromatic grape like Muscat or Gewurztraminer, though it is at the subtle end of the spectrum of aromatic grapes, along with Riesling. The aromas of this wine show delicate floral notes that accentuate the fruitiness of the wine and lend a suggestion of sweetness, yet the palate and finish are really only fruity rather than overtly sweet.
With generous but fine-grained effervescence, the Maschio dei Cavalieri offers appealingly creamy mousse, and yet fresh acidity
provides a refreshing edge to the creamy impression. Rich and foamy but surprisingly taut and focused at once, this is a complex and interesting wine that belies the notion that Prosecco is simply an unserious wine for poolside sipping–though it would serve that purpose quite nicely. I scored this wine at 90 points, and would fearlessly serve it on any occasion, regardless of formality.
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