The conventional wisdom has it that more or less 90 percent of all wines are consumed within 48 hours of purchase. This has come to be the accepted theology of wine marketeers.
But I remember a time when industry alarmists warned that despite increased consumption, there were no new wine drinkers. The CW said the pool of wine drinkers had not grown; the same old customers were simply drinking more wine.
I challenged that premise at the time because I knew from anecdotal evidence — primarily observations gleaned while conducting wine tasting sessions at local restaurants — that a new and eager generation of wine enthusiasts had emerged.
So today I look around and see that, in my neighborhood, businesses that provide temperature-controlled storage facilties for wine enthusiasts are thriving as never before. I scratch my head and I wonder whether we should really assume only crusty old connoisseurs are inclined to lay down ageworthy wines in a proper cellar.
I have concluded this is clearly not the case. And that the ability to age is a factor to consider when evaluating wine. Which brings me to the topic of my Creators Syndicate column this week — Chablis.
I like to stash away exceptional white wines that have the capacity to improve with age, then come back to them after five to ten years. White Burgundy is perhaps the greatest example of a collectible white, but most of us tend to focus on the premier and grand cru wines of the Cotes de Beaune.
Such a fixation requires deep pockets. Not so much with premier and grand cru Chablis. Yet these wines perform admirably in the cellar, although they generally lose some of the freshness that makes them so appealing when young.
For many of the top Chablis, however, the transformation is nothing short of miraculous. The wines add color and weight, and profound complexities come to full flower. Yet the prices, if you buy upon release, are a fraction of their more famous cousins from the Cotes de Beaune.
This summer I’ve been turned on to wonderful Chablis from William Fevre, Domaine Laroche and Joseph Drouhin. These have been remarkable wines from two outstanding vintages, 2004 and 2005.
I’ve also had good experiences with wines of the Cotes de Beaune from these vintages, but I confess I am more fond of the Chablis.
Because I can afford them!
8