Marguerite Thomas’ Wine Picks for Thanksgiving

Nov 19, 2008 | Blog

[WRO Readers:  We’ll be publishing Thanksgiving wine recommendations from our WRO contributors in this space almost every day until the holiday–so stay tuned!  Michael Franz]

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In this winter of our economic discontent, with people and banks, corporations and car manufacturers, insurance companies and retail giants going bust all around us, frugality seems the most appropriate response.  While we keep our fingers crossed that our savings, our 401 Ks, our hopes for educating the kids, and our dreams of retirement don’t take an even bigger hit, we can still give thanks for what we’ve got.  And we can certainly open bottles of wine for our family and friends this Thanksgiving that won’t send us further into hock.  In looking back through the tasting notes of the wines I’ve enjoyed this year, I realize that it’s more than possible to put together an array of delicious wines that cost less than $20 a bottle.  Here are some of my suggestions.

Personally, I like an aperitif wine with a hint of sweetness rather than highly acidic wines (which to my palate are less appealing on an empty stomach).  To accompany the nibbling of nuts and crunching of crudités I propose a choice of two white wines.  The first is MAN Vintners Chenin Blanc 2008, a $10 South African sipper that has loads of ripe mango and melon fruitiness plus a cool zippy finish.  For even less money–$9–there’s Chateau Ste Michelle Riesling from Columbia Valley to provide an off-dry, enormously pleasing prelude to the meal.

Are you serving a first course–clam or corn chowder, or some such all-American gastronomic treasure?  Pour glasses of Pillar Box White 2008 to go with it.  This is a luscious Australian blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho from Henry’s Drive Vignerons, an Australian producer.  The wine has mouth-filling tropical fruit flavors, a soft texture, a lingering finish, and an $12 pricetag.

Moving on to the main event, some people prefer white to red wine with turkey.  For them I propose Willakenzie Pinot Gris, an absolutely gorgeous offering from Oregon that has enough complexity and rich body to be a superb partner for either white or dark meat (miraculously, it will even complement the sweet potatoes and most of the other trimmings).  At $18, wine of this quality is a steal.

For red wine imbibers who may be hosting a crowd, Wolf Blass ‘Yellow Label’ Shiraz is an appealing pour, especially at $14 a bottle.  For a relatively inexpensive Aussie Shiraz, this one shows a fair amount of decorum, and its full fruit flavors and medium body suit the turkey better than a more flashy, fleshy wine might. 
For those who think that Bordeaux is the way to go for any holiday feast, the good news is that there are a surprising number of excellent budget Bordeaux bottles to be had.  One that I particularly like is Chateau Lyonnat 2005, a Lussac Saint-Emilion Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc blend that you should be able to find for no more than $15 a bottle.  A medium-bodied wine that delivers both power and suppleness, its hints of spice and berry fruit are flavors that seem designed for pairing with the Thanksgiving menu.

I don’t know about you, but for me one of the best things about Thanksgiving is the next-day turkey sandwich.  What I’m going to want to drink with mine is a cheerful and refreshing rosé.  This year Alexander Valley Vineyards’ Rosé of Sangiovese 2007 might be just the thing.  It’s robust yet utterly dry, with the right kind of strawberry and cherry flavors to fill in for cranberry sauce (I go for mayo and lettuce on my sandwiches, not cranberry sauce).  The wine costs $12, a reasonable price for something this good.  And that’s something to be thankful for!

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