I’ll be the first to admit that I was once firmly planted in the ABC (anything but Chardonnay) camp. Like many wine enthusiasts, I had grown weary of the heavily oaked butterball Chardonnays that prevailed over the past two decades.
Those wines weren’t necessarily bad, merely boring. The monotonous drumbeat of slightly sweet, oily Chardonnays coming out of California wineries drove many wine lovers into the waiting arms of the Kiwis, with their crisp, pungent Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand’s Marlborough region.
When I had a yen for Chardonnay, I bought French. White Burgundy from the Cote de Beaune when I could afford it, but mostly premier cru Chablis. I was completely turned off by domestic Chardonnay, with few exceptions.
I’m happy to report that I no longer loathe a tasting lineup stacked with California, Oregon or Washington Chardonnays. My assistant, Felicia, is overjoyed by my renewed interest in domestic Chardonnays, because she loves them and she gets her pick of the leftovers following a tasting.
What has turned it around for me is the evidence of restraint being exercised by more and more wineries. While I may occasionally enjoy a big, fat, oily Chardonnay from, say, Talbott’s Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, I’m much more likely to ask for a less fruit-driven Chardonnay such as Sonoma Cutrer or Kistler when ordering in a restaurant.
At least I now have an abundance of options. Imagine a world where all Chardonnays don’t taste the same! That’s the subject of my Creators Syndicate column this week. Click here to read the whole thing.
8