Both of our columns in this week’s issue are devoted to rare, ultra-expensive wines, so it seems prudent for me to point to some exceptional bargains in this space–lest you get the misimpression that WRO has deserted you in favor of the Extended Pinky set.
That is definitely not the case. During January and February alone, I’ve already tasted more than 2,000 wines priced under $20, with the bulk of those actually priced below $12. If you do the math, that’s a hell of a lot of wine to taste. Tackling 140 wines in an evening is not the party you might guess it to be, but it can be very interesting and rewarding when there’s a bunch of good wines in the mix.
I’ve conducted similar intensive tastings of lower-priced wines at the start of the calendar year for more than a decade now. On this basis, I’m happy to report that a diffusion of technology and expertise around the world has combined with a global shift in wine styling to produce a delightful outcome: Reasonably affordable wine is the best that it has ever been, and it continues to get better every year.
Technology diffusion has now largely run its course, and my travels indicate that wine is made largely the same way with the same equipment almost everywhere in the world. Lately it has been stylistic shifts that have been making the greater contribution to improving affordable wine, and more specifically I would credit a turn toward freshness and purity and away from oak chips or other cosmetic tricks.
Many consumers will have noticed a shift in Chardonnay fitting this description, but it is now showing up in red wines as well. This is particularly apparent with lighter reds, and less expensive renditions of Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Pinot Noir are increasingly being made with minimal oak exposure. Using oak chips or other trickery in attempts to make cheap wines ape expensive ones rarely worked anyway, and the current trend toward purity and simplicity is yielding wines that are more versatile with food while also being more coherent and natural.
I’ll have more to say in coming weeks about my favorite affordable wines from recent tastings, but here’s a case of outstanding examples to enjoy while you’re saving up for DRC or Taylor’s Scion Tawny:
WHITES:
Pinot Grigio “Prendo,” Wilhelm Walch, Vigneti delle Dolomiti,
Italy, 2009 ($12, Imported by The Country Vintner): Bored with Pinot Grigio? Me too, generally, but certainly not with this rendition. Fresh fruit notes of lemon and green apple in a zesty and exceptionally refreshing wine.
Sauvignon Blanc, Brancott Estate, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2010 ($12, Pernod-Ricard): A remarkable bargain at $12, this is often discounted below the list price due to over-planting in Marlborough. Aromas and flavors of ripe grapefruit come to the fore, with grassy undertones and a persistent finish.
Vinho Branco Regional Alentejano, Loios, Portugal, 2009 ($12, Winebow): This is more complex and distinctive than many whites costing twice as much. It shows intriguing aromas and flavors reminiscent of white melon, dried herbs and toasted nuts.
Albariño, Burgans, Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain, 2009 ($14, European Cellars): Many bottlings of Albariño have seemed ever more diluted and watery even as their prices have risen, but in this case, both quality and price have held steady. Scents of spring flowers and flavors of peaches and pears in a fresh but substantial wine.
Mâcon-Solutré, Domaine Trouillet, Burgundy, France, 2008 ($18, J. W. Sieg): The 2008 vintage was terrific for white Burgundy, and that includes Mâcon no less than the Côte d’Or. This is lively but layered and long-lasting, with apple fruit accented with spice and mineral notes. And it tastes like a $30 wine.
Chardonnay, Domaine Antugnac, Haute Vallée de l’Aude, France, 2009 ($12, Vintage ’59 Imports): A restrained, stylish Chardonnay from the Languedoc, this shows exceptional purity and balance, and is an object lesson in the advantages of the fresh, honest style of wine that I sought to profile in the heading of this post.
Viognier, Horton, Orange County, VA, 2009 ($16): This Virginia producer turned in a remarkable performance with this 2009 Viognier, which is one of the world’s most compelling whites in the rare instances when someone really gets it right. This lovely wine shows lightly floral aromas leading into rich, satisfying flavors of peaches and pears.
REDS:
Pinot Noir, Jargon, California, 2009 ($11): Inexpensive Pinot was quite possibly the world’s worst wine category as recently as two years ago. That has changed, thankfully, and this is a fine case in point. It is juicy and generous, with soft but substantial fruit recalling ripe strawberries and rich red cherries.
Merlot “Reserve,” Angeline, Sonoma County, CA, 2009 ($12): A couple of years ago, Merlot was nearly as dreadful as Pinot in this price range, but many bottlings have improved dramatically. This winning wine shows black plum and dark berry fruit with a soft, smooth finish.
Ribera del Duero, Finca Resalso by Emilio Moro, Castilla y León, Spain, 2009 ($15, Jorge Ordoñez): Generously fruited, judiciously oaked, and beautifully balanced, this is a model of proportionality. It features scents of woodsmoke and spices accenting concentrated flavors recalling black cherries.
Red Blend “Maquis Lien,” Los Maquis, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2007 ($18, Global Vinyard Importers): Agreed, at $18 we’re not talking about an inexpensive wine. But this was one of my two picks for WRO Wine of the Year two years back, and the new release is stunning in its class and complexity. Intricate aromas of woodsmoke and spice enhance dark berry notes and a mineral-tinged finish.
Cabernet Sauvignon “Reserva,” Santa Rita, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2008 ($12, Palm Bay International): If you want aromatic complexity and distinctive flavors in your red wine, but don’t want to pay big money to get it, there is no country on earth that can match Chile right now. This shows subtle aromas of toast and cedar leading to focused flavors of black currant and blackberry.
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