It may come as a surprise to some, but Argentina has a diverse wine culture and there’s quite a bit more to it than the ubiquitous Malbec wines that have flooded the market since 2008, when the recession hit and red-wine enthusiasts were all about finding outstanding reds they could afford to drink.
Argentina also produces Torrontes, an aromatic white wine that has gained little traction here in the United States. That could change quickly if consumers begin to see more wines of the caliber of the 2011 Colome Torrontes ($15) from the Valle Calchaqui in the Salta region, well north of the heart of Argentine wine production in Mendoza.
The vineyards of Valle Calchaqui are higher and cooler than many in Mendoza, and thus deliver more structured, elegant wines in many cases.
Torrontes has long suffered from overproduction, meaning it was made with volume and value in mind and little care was given to growing grapes that might provide a different experience. The Colome Torrontes has more character than most, owing to its firm structure and beautifully developed aromatics.
This is not one of those thin, light, innocuous Torrontes wines you perhaps have had in the past. One thing I noticed about this wine is the intense floral aromas dissipate a day or so after opening, so if the floral aspect is not your bag, just open the wine, give it some air, and wait.
This is a beautiful wine to pair with savory appetizers around the holidays, and at $15 it’s a good price, even better considering the big jump in quality over everyday run-of-the-mill Torrontes.
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