Regular readers of this space will know that I have recently grown fond of the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs coming from the folks at Patz & Hall.
The wines are not only delicious but instructive, for they focus on specific California vineyards that possess unique characteristics. That fact alone is no revelation, but I was struck yesterday by the vast differences between two new Pinots I sampled from Patz & Hall.
One was a 2005 Hyde Vineyard ($60) and the other a 2005 Pisoni Vineyard ($80). Hyde is located in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley and Pisoni is down in Monterey County, in the Santa Lucia Highlands.
The first thing that grabbed me about the Pisoni was the bouquet. It filled the room as the wine was poured into the glass. That sort of intensely floral, spicy, earthy nose is difficult to come by and almost always a signal that what’s in the glass is equally impressive.
Indeed, the 2005 Patz & Hall is a stunner. It’s a sexy, succulent, layered beauty that will no doubt please any crowd. But I noticed the alcohol. It weighs in at a hefty 15.2 percent. Let there be no doubt that this is a big, bold Pinot Noir. But it finishes a little sweet, or at least leaves the impression of sweetness.
I’ve noticed this quite often in the Pinots from Pisoni and its kissing cousin Pinot Noir vineyard, the cultish Gary’s Vineyard that is nearby.
The 2005 Patz & Hall Hyde Pinot Noir, on the other hand, seemed closed by comparison, not nearly as flashy on the nose nor as exhuberant on the palate.
You may find this surprising, but I preferred the Hyde. I also checked the alcohol, which was not insubstantial, but clearly lower at 14.2 than the bodacious Pisoni.
Other than the alcohol, the Hyde has everything the Pisoni offers, but in a tighter package. Lovely notes of earth and spice, remarkable depth, and wonderful texture, with real length in the mouth. If I could only have one, this would be the one.
Trust me, I wouldn’t turn down either. But I celebrate the fact that as wine enthusiasts we have choices. You can serve the flashy Pisoni now and save the more grounded Hyde for later.
Or you can decide for yourself that the razzle-dazzle fruit of Pisoni is not your thing; that you prefer a more subdued, mineral-driven Burgundian style of Pinot. Or not.
It is not so important whether one is better than the other. They are different. You either like it, or you don’t.
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