I’m guessing that in the wake of Thanksgiving dinner you may be thinking of lighter fare for this weekend? Certainly that makes sense, but since the holidays are just starting, you won’t want to shift into austerity mode straight away. So, if light but still festive is the question, here’s my answer: Lots of freshly shucked oysters.
I should disclose that this is my answer to most questions, regardless
of the question. I grew up in an oyster-deprived condition in Chicago, and have been making up for that at breakneck speed ever since. For the past 16 years I’ve also been able to incorporate my love of wine into my oyster mania by helping to conduct the world’s premier judging of oyster wines: The Old Ebbitt Grill International Wines for Oysters Competition.
I wouldn’t blame you for asking whether this is a serious undertaking or just a big party masquerading as one. However, one sign that something serious has been going on at the Ebbitt judging in Washington, D.C. each autumn is that–as in all successful scientific experiments–the results are impressively uniform year after year.
The judging is always conducted “blind,” with the identity of all the wines rigorously concealed. The judging panel is always carefully assembled with a mix of experienced judges and new blood, and likewise with a mix of chefs, civilian food lovers, and wine experts. In the latter category, a plurality of our WRO contributors have been involved over the years, including Paul Lukacs, Marguerite Thomas, Robert Whitley, Michael Apstein, Gerald Boyd, Linda Murphy, and Yours Truly.
And virtually ever year the results are the same: Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough district in New Zealand beats the pants off of every other wine in the world when it comes to matching up with a delicious raw oyster.
This year’s winner was the 2010 bottling from Sileni Estates Winery, which was fabulously zesty and energetic and cleansing, producing an irresistible synergy with the briny richness of the Kushi oysters.
This year’s runner-up was a California sparkler, Laetitia Brut Cuveé from Arroyo Grande, but seven of the other eight wines in the top ten were Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough: Glazebrook "Ngatarwa" 2009; Babich 2009; Kim Crawford 2009; Babich “Black Label” 2009; Nobilo 2009; Kato 2009, and Matua Valley 2009. The remaining Gold Medal winner was from Chile, the 2010 Santa Rita “120” Sauvignon Blanc, which has made previous appearances in the Ebbitt winner’s circle, and is one of the world’s very best values every year.
If you are an oyster-pairing partisan of Sancerre or Muscadet or Champagne or Chablis, I can only say to you what I say to all of my fellow fans of the Chicago Cubs: Maybe next year. But until next November, please pass the oysters, and make mine a glass of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc….
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