I’ve never understood the "cult" wine phenomenon, which is an affliction that seems to be contained largely to the Napa Valley.
It goes something like this: Rich guy (or gal, in the case of Ann Colgin) takes a choice plot of vineyard land in the Napa Valley. Then he or she plants Cabernet Sauvignon (the money grape, of course), hires an expensive consultant, and makes small amounts of very expensive Cabernet that is sold to other rich folk who line up to overpay for a so-called cult Cab.
These wines take on a life of their own once they escape the winery, fetching small fortunes at auction and when they occasionally turn up in a retail wine shop. It’s common, for example, to see a bottle of Screaming Eagle for more than $1,000 per bottle.
I would be the first to tell you that the Napa Valley produces incredible Cabernet. So, the cults Cabs are no doubt very good. But the dirty little secret is that you don’t have to own a hedge fund and pay outrageous sums to get your hands on an incredible Napa Valley Cabernet. You merely have to know where to look.
I was reminded of that fact recently when I tasted Cabernet Sauvignons from two venerable Napa Valley producers, Grgich Hills Cellars and Joseph Phelps Vineyards. Over the past 25 years, they have been among the best in the valley at the money grape, Cabernet Sauvignon. My cellar was once stocked with Grgich and Phelps Cabs from the 1980s and 1990s. Sadly, those stocks have dwindled over the years, but I still have bottles of Cabernet from the early 1990s from each winery.
I am happy to report that these wines are in impeccable condition and have been magnificent each time that I’ve opened one in recent years. It is hard to imagine how any "cult" Cab made today could be any better 10, 15 or 20 years from now.
So I present to you the 2007 Grgich and the 2008 Phelps Cabernets, $60 and $56, respectively. You will see that I found both wines to be quite profound. Neither wine is inexpensive in the literal sense, but both wines are amazing bargains when compared to the cost of a cult Cab.
If you have a wine cellar, or you’re even thinking about having a wine cellar, these wines should be high on your shopping list. Or if you simply want a dazzling Napa Valley Cabernet for a special occasion or a gift, but don’t want to take out a second mortgage, either of the two would serve you well.
On the other hand, if you absolutely must make a statement to impress someone, go ahead, be my guest and purchase a cult Cab. But don’t expect me to understand.
Grgich Hills Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate ($60) — Given the inflated cost of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, the marvel of Grgich’s ’07 vintage is that it only costs $60. That’s chump change in a region where Bryant, Scarecrow, Grace Family, Screaming Eagle and the like go for hundreds, even thousands, of dollars. But no Napa Cab over the past two decades has been more reliable than Grgich Hills, whose Cabs from the late 1980s and early 1990s continue to hold up very well. The ’07 is beautifully structured with dense layers of dark fruit and spice, firm tannins and a hint of cedar and vanilla on the finish. It is truly an astonishing Napa Cab for the price. 96.
Joseph Phelps Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($56) — Once upon a time, it wasn’t unheard of for Phelps to produce a Cabernet that could compete alongside its iconic red meritage, Insignia, despite the enormous difference in price. Improvements in the Insignia vineyard sources over the years have created a bit of space between the two wines, but that gap may once again be narrowing. The ’08 Phelps Cab is one of the finest Phelps Cabs in years. It is a well-proportioned stunner that exhibits density on the palate with layered black fruit flavors, an underpinning of supple tannin and firm acidity, and hints of cedar, forest floor and spice. Drink this impressive Napa Cab now, or cellar it for up to 15 years. 95.
8