Castello Banfi’s Tour de Force
Wine of the year is one thing, winery of the year is another.
To choose the former, I simply go with my gut. The "wow" factor is of utmost importance, and the winner should certainly exhibit profound characteristics that can be easily identified, even by a novice.
The latter is recognition for a body of work. While some of it certainly should contain an element of profundity, the most important factor is consistent excellence over an extended period of time and with multiple wines. I also factor cost into the equation, which I do not for Wine of the Year, which is simply the wine that most impressed me regardless of price.
Price most definitely played a critical role in this year’s selection of Winery of the Year, for the "value" factor delivered by the Tuscan wines of Castello Banfi was nothing short of astounding throughout 2011. The measure of consistency can be found in the performance of these wines over a six-month stretch at three major international wine competitions under my supervision — the San Diego International, Critics Challenge and Sommelier Challenge.
At the San Diego International, Banfi walked off with 10 medals, then seven at Critics Challenge and eight at Sommelier Challenge. Other wineries may have won more medals, but Banfi did so with wines that ranged in price from moderately expensive to dirt cheap.
I would bore you with the details, except that the details are anything but boring for those who fancy fine wine at bargain bin prices.
At the 28th annual San Diego International Wine Competition (SDIWC) in April, Banfi’s 2008 Chianti Classico DOCG ($13) won a Platinum award, meaning it advanced to the championship round of voting for Best of Show red wine, where it fell short but in the meantime was named Best Chianti. Castello Banfi’s 2006 Brunello di Montalcino (its flagship wine) won a Gold award, and eight other wines took Silver, including the 2008 Centine Rosso and 2009 Centine Bianco at $11 each. These are some of the tastiest wines in the world at this price!
At the eighth annual Critics Challenge (all of the judges were well-known wine journalists) in May, the 2007 Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG ($18) took a Platinum award; the 2009 Centine Rose ($11), the 2010 Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG ($23) and the 2009 Rosso di Montalcino DOC ($19) nabbed Gold awards all.
Three other Banfi wines received Silver awards.
And finally, at the third annual Sommelier Challenge (all of the judges were certified sommeliers), Banfi and Castello Banfi claimed six Gold awards and two Silvers, one of the Golds being the brilliant Super Tuscan "Belnero" from the 2007 vintage at $39.
For Castello Banfi, 2011 represented a tour de force by its outstanding portfolio, from its flagship wines such as the 2006 Brunello and 2007 Belnero to its modestly priced introductory "Centine" wines.
That said, the competition was daunting. Eberle Winery of Paso Robles, Calif., was impressive throughout the year, particularly at the Sommelier Challenge, where it won 13 awards from 14 wines entered and was named Winery of the Year for the competition. It also won 10 awards at the Winemaker Challenge in January, nine at the SDIWC and seven at the Critics Challenge. Eberle specializes in Paso cabernet, syrah and zinfandel.
California’s Bonny Doon Vineyards also had a very good year. Even though Bonny Doon does not enter wine competitions, I follow the wines closely because they are made by the brilliant winemaker Randall Grahm, who’s also been known to deliver a measure of profundity at a reasonable price. The greatest example of that in the past year was the delicious 2010 Clos de Gilroy Grenache at $18. His finest wine released in the past year, however, was the flagship Le Cigare Volant ($35) from the 2007 vintage. Bonny Doon also unleashed a number of vineyard-designated syrahs that exhibit exceptional structure and minerality without any apparent lack of impactful fruit. These wines are difficult to find, though.
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention several producers from other parts of the United States that had exceptional years, but suffer from lack of exposure and distribution.
Frogtown Cellars of Lumpkin County, Ga., picked up five Gold awards and two Silvers at the SDIWC, and proved it was no fluke by taking four Golds at the Critics Challenge. Frogtown did very well with Bordeaux- and Rhone-style wines.
Barboursville Vineyards in Virginia started the year with a Gold and a Silver at the Winemaker Challenge in January, then ended it with a splash by winning four Gold awards and three Silver awards at the Sommelier Challenge. And another Virginia winery, Jefferson, won a Platinum, four Gold awards and three Silver awards spread over the four competitions. Jefferson’s most impressive wine is a red Bordeaux-style blend, and its viognier can be stunning in good vintages.
Castello Banfi’s Award-Winning Performances
SDIWC
Best Chianti
& Platinum 2008 Chianti Classico DOCG Italy $13
Silver 2009 Chianti DOCG Superiore Italy $11
Silver 2007 Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva Italy $18
Silver 2008 Centine Rosso, Toscana IGT Italy $11
Silver 2009 Centine Bianco, Toscana IGT Italy $11
Silver 2010 Rosa Regale, Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG Italy $23
Silver 2007 Belnero, Proprietor’s Reserve, Toscana IGT Italy $39
Silver 2008 Rosso di Montalcino DOC Italy $19
Gold 2006 Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Italy $60
Silver 2009 San Angelo, Pinot Grigio, Toscana IGT Italy $17
CRITICS CHALLENGE
Critics Silver 2008 Chianti Classico DOCG Italy $13
Critics Platinum 2007 Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva Italy $18
Critics Silver 2009 Centine Bianco, Toscana IGT Italy $11
Critics Gold 2009 Centine Rosè, Toscana IGT Italy $11.00
Critics Gold 2010 Rosa Regale, Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG Italy $23
Critics Gold 2009 Rosso di Montalcino DOC Italy $19
Critics Silver 2006 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Italy $60
SOMMELIER CHALLENGE
Gold 2009 Chianti DOCG Superiore Italy $11
Silver 2008 Chianti Classico DOCG Italy $13
Gold 2007 Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva Italy $18
Gold 2008 Centine Rosso, Toscana IGT Italy $11
Gold 2007 Belnero, Proprietor’s Reserve, Toscana IGT Italy $39
Silver 2009 Rosso di Montalcino DOC Italy $19
Gold 2006 Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Italy $60
Gold 2009 Pinot Grigio, San Angelo, Toscano IGT $17
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru.
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