For me, sparkling wine is not just for celebration, and not just for warm weather pleasure. I was recently reminded of how much I enjoy bubbles, and how versatile they really can be, when I opened up a bottle of sparkling pink Moscato from Italy’s Puglia province (M/Mochetto,
Rosato, $17, imported by Quintessential). I sipped a glassful of the lightly effervescent fizz as I puttered around the kitchen making salmon patties for dinner, and then I decided what-the-heck–I’m enjoying this so much I might as well put that bottle of Chardonnay back in the fridge and pour the Moscato with supper instead.
The wine is distinctly sweet, with Moscato’s characteristic floral aromas, but its little slap of acidity at the end of each sip revitalizes the taste buds and keeps the wine from slipping into the doldrums. The fact that it is low in alcohol (5%) placed the wine in perfect balance with the relatively simple salmon cakes. In fact, this charming little pink wine was so delectable that it got me musing about the variety of sparkling wines that Italy produces.
A couple of regions make their spumante using the traditional sparkling wine method (a second fermentation in the bottle, riddling, disgorgement), but most rely on the slightly less expensive Charmat method, which tends to produce a wine with lower alcohol and delicate mousse. But regardless of how they are made, I can’t–off the top of my head–think of any other country that creates as many different styles of sparkling wine as Italy.
Many wine fanciers consider the sparkling wines from Franciacorta, in the Lombardy region, among the country’s most elegant. The best ones are stylish and sophisticated. They are made by the traditional method, and the grapes include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Bianco. Franciacorta wines are typically brut.
The province of Trento likewise produces spumante made by traditional method, from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Bianco. The region’s high altitude and cool northern climate contribute to the attractive crispness, balance and complexity found in the top Trento brands.
Prosecco is the name of both the grape and the type of wine from the Veneto; it is generally crisp, refreshing and relatively low in alcohol. Whether brut, slightly sweet or dessert-style, global sales have soared now that wine drinkers have discovered these appealing, and generally inexpensive, sparkling wines.
Lambrusco, which some people think of only as a sweet, sappy sipper, should not be sneered at. The best Lambrusco seccos are dry, frothy dark red wines that can charm and refresh both on their own and as an accompaniment to many rich, meat or cheese-based dishes (I recently relished one with a prosciutto and arugula pizza). They can range from softly sparkling (frizzante) to full sparkling (spumante). Native to Emilia, they are made from any number of different strains of the labrusca grape. They are best enjoyed in a red-wine glass rather than a flute.
From the Piedmont region comes Braccheto, a light bodied, dark pink frizzante, slightly sweet, delicately perfumed and reminiscent of strawberries (I like it so much I served it years ago at my own wedding). The grape is Brachetto, the DOCG Brachetto d’Aqui.
Moscato d’Asti is made from the Moscato Bianco grape, and tends to be on the sweet side, low in alcohol, delicately frothy and thoroughly enjoyable. It’s an informal wine that requires neither a flute nor a special occasion. Moscato d’Asti comes from the region of Asti located at the opposite end of the boot from the Puglian Moscato that originally set me off on this homage to Italy’s fizz.
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