A Trio of Bargain Bordeaux

Stop laughing. Exceptional Bordeaux that’s fairly cheap — all things considered — does exist, and I was reminded of that fact over the course of tasting primeurs samples of the 2011 vintage last week in Bordeaux.

Among the wines that stood out were those from three chateaux on the Left Bank that have overdelivered — based on relatively modest pedigree — in recent vintages. The three — Chateau de Pez St. Estephe, Chateau Siran Margaux and Chateau Gloria St. Julien — all hail from good neighborhoods, but none are likely to attract the attention of wealthy Chinese wine buyers out to impress their friends.

On the other hand, Bordeaux collectors who’ve started to gag at the price of First and Second Growth chateaux may want to take a closer look at some of the properties making sensational wines without the burden of great expectations, and the price that comes with notoriety.

The 2009 Chateau de Pez can be found on the internet for less than $40, and the 2011 vintage should be even less. A few critics, myself included, have a high regard for 2011, but no one places it in the same league with either 2010 or 2009.

I found both Chateau Gloria and Chateau Siran from 2009 for less than $30 a bottle on the internet. If the 2011 vintages of those two chateaux come in under that, they may rank as the steals of the vintage.

All three wines exhibited exceptional structure and character at the 2011 Primeurs tastings and should hold up nicely for a decade or more in a good cellar. These chateaux may not score you any points with the wine snobs in your circle, but they will fill your cellar with first-class Bordeaux from a good vintage at an attractive price.