If you’re looking for some lively, unique and affordable wines for relaxed summer drinking, consider some of the offerings from Portugal’s Vinho Verde region. You may remember Vinho Verde as a simple, pleasant-but-boring white wine with a little bit of spritz to set it apart from 
other ho-hum summer sippers. But if you haven’t tried any wines from the Vinho Verde region recently, you could be in for a pleasant surprise.
Although red Vinho Verde is produced in relatively small amounts, what most people are more familiar with is the region’s white wines. Among Vinho Verde’s several different white wine grapes, the most prevalent is Alvarinho (this is the same grape found just across the Minho River in Spain’s Galicia region, where its name is Albariño). Top white wine grapes also include Loureiro (which yields fragrant, fresh wines) and Trajadura (these wines can be soft and opulent). Among other whites are Espadeiro (frequently used for sparkling wine), Avesso and Azal Branco.
One reason Vinho Verde white wines have such summery appeal is that they tend to be delicately textured and infused with attractive, lightly floral fragrance and gentle flavors. They are frequently spine-tinglingly crisp (without being sour) and they’re generally low in alcohol. For the most part Vinho Verde wines are simple and easygoing, but increasingly one can find some that have impressive balance and genuine complexity.
White wines from Vinho Verde outnumber reds by far, but there is a push on in the region to increase the production of fine red wine. This goal is more attainable today thanks to a couple of factors. One is the slight but significant increase in overall temperature that allows grapes in cooler regions such as northern Portugal to ripen thoroughly. Equally significant are the advances in knowledge and technology in vineyards and wineries (and of course all these factors influence white wine as well as red wine production).
Getting to know Vinho Verde red wine is easy in that you don’t have to master an entire lexicon of different grape varieties since the single most prevalent red wine grape by far is Vinhäo. I will admit, however, that Vinhão based wine is not immediately easy to love, especially in a world that favors big, fruity, smooth, velvety red wines. The truth is that Vinhão is most often rustic, austere, even tart. But I find that when well made, it can be terrific with the sort of rich, fatty, meaty foods for which the Iberian Peninsula is known. Lamb, for example, as well as ham, sausage and other cured or smoked meats can be delicious with good Vinhão. “It’s not a wine for export,” one producer told me. “It is better to import people to Portugal and have them drink it here.”
I would certainly recommend an expedition to Vinho Verde, and not only for the purpose of sampling the wines. Anyone looking for a vacation venue that’s off the beaten path, with lovely landscapes and charming small towns is sure to appreciate this little corner of earthly paradise. Personally, I would return in a heartbeat for a closer look at the cultural center of Guimarães. I had time only for a quick overview of this UNESCO World Heritage site known for its remarkably well preserved evolution of ancient-to-medieval architecture (Guimarães’ oldest streets date back to the 10th century). I would also go back to Ponte de Lima. Said to be the oldest village in Portugal, Ponte de Lima is a beautiful town known today for its many palaces and mansions, and for its Roman/Medieval bridge spanning the Ponte River. But until I get a chance to revisit these places, I’ll settle for some of the region’s wines at home, and I recommend you do the same. Here are a few Vinho Verde labels that are available in the US market.
Casal do Paço Padreiro: From the “Afros” line from this organic and Biodynamic producer, try
Loureiro, and sparkling Loureiro. Afros Vinhão is one of the few Vinhãos imported into the US, and well worth seeking out if you’re an adventuresome wine drinker. And if, like me, you appreciate sparkling dry red wines by all means pick up a bottle or two of Afros sparkling Vinhão (thoroughly chilled, this can be a refreshing and fun wine to pour when regular reds seem too hot and heavy for a warm summer day). All Afros wines tend to be serious, lean and sophisticated, and are priced between $15 and $22. Imported by Skurnik.
Gomariz: Succulent Gomariz Loureiro conveys the richness of melon and the brightness of lime peel. The Alvarinho combines remarkably delicacy with complexity. Gomariz Vinhão is substantial enough to serve with pork or chicken, and its always good with simple dishes such as pasta with tomato based sauce. Be sure to chill Vinhão before serving this unusual red wine. Prices range from $13 to $18. Imported by P.R. Grisley.
Quinta da Aveleda: This is a beautiful estate renowned for its gorgeous gardens as well as its infinitely approachable white wines. Several different whites from Aveleda are available in the US, including the wonderfully crisp and refreshing Vinho Verde (made from Loureiro, Trajadura and Arinto grapes) to the richer, somewhat more complex Aveleda Alvarinho. Prices range from $8 to $13. Imported by TriVin.
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