As the summer heat builds and meals trend toward light, fresh ingredients, I am always drawn to the intriguing white wines of southern Italy, made from obscure grape varieties known and grown only in the hot, dry Mediterranean climate where they have thrived for centuries.
The whites of Italy’s southern provinces have weight and complexity without being heavy. They are made to be consumed with food. The alcohol levels are modest despite the warm growing season. And, best of all, prices have been held in check because demand is limited primarily to those adventurous souls who are brave enough to try something different.
Exhibit A would be Donnafugata Anthilia, a blend of ansonica and catarratto grapes grown in western Sicily, near the ancient village of Marsala. Move to the head of the class if you’ve ever heard of either grape. Donnafugata was founded by Giacomo and Gabriela Rallo nearly 30 years ago, and it has been one of Sicily’s most respected wineries since opening its doors. Anthilia was the first wine ever made at Donnafugata.
It is one of a handful of Italian whites I enjoy springing on unsuspecting houseguests. Few have ever heard of it, let alone tasted it, and the typical reaction upon the first sip is utter amazement. It is well balanced, tastes predominantly of yellow peaches, and is silky and refined. I enjoy it with steamed mussels, squid and various marinated summer vegetables.
Average retail price at WineSearcher.com: $13. Hard to believe a wine so good costs so little.
Exhibit B is the Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina, a wine that is 100 percent varietal, made from grapes grown in the Sannio district in the Campania region, not far from Naples. The vineyards are planted on hillsides at elevations ranging from 700 to 1,300 feet above sea level. The elevation and cool, clay soils contribute to the freshness of this wine.
The flavor profile is a subtle mix of tropical fruits, apple and citrus, with a strong essence of minerality. Though it has long been considered the poor cousin of Campania’s two more renowned white wines — Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino — falanghina from Feudi di San Gregorio has altered that perception somewhat.
Average retail price at WineSearcher.com: $16. And worth every penny.
Exhibit C is the exotic Feudo Principi di Butera Insolia, a wine that is also 100 percent varietal, made from the grape known as insolia in some parts of Sicily, ansonica in others.
Butera is a small village in the southeastern corner of Sicily, halfway between the ancient Greek ruins of Agrigento and the ancient city of Ragusa. This is a mineral-driven white with an intensely floral nose, but subdued fruit aromas both on the nose and palate.
It is bone dry, perfect with steamed shellfish, grilled octopus and other fish, or all manner of Mediterranean tapas. This wine is well balanced, and the alcohol is modest at 13 percent.
Average retail price at WineSearcher.com: $13. If you get lucky, you might even find it for under $10.
Of course, these three barely scratch the surface. Italy is awash in refreshing white wines that will quench your thirst on a warm summer day. The diversity of Italian white wine is astonishing.
Besides the ubiquitous pinot grigio (best from the Alto Adige and Friuli regions), other Italian whites to tempt your taste buds might include a crisp Orvieto from Umbria, a slightly tart wine made from the ancient grechetto grape; a light and refreshing Gavi from Piemonte, made from the noble cortese grape; or a soft and voluptuous soave from the Veneto, which is made primarily from the garganega grape.
Although few of these wines or grape varieties are household terms in most households, they are sure to deliver unique taste experiences you won’t soon forget. And that is a beautiful thing.
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