Earlier this year I made my somewhat annual trek to Bordeaux (I confess I have skipped a couple of vintages) for the primeurs tastings of the new vintage, 2011. Although a record number of journalists turned out, the event was sparsely attended by wine writers and critics from the United States.
Shortly after my return I was quizzed by a colleague about my loyalty to Bordeaux, given his considered opinion that interest in Bordeaux is in steep decline in the U.S.
"Besides the two of us," he said to me, "do you know anyone else who is still buying Bordeaux?"
In fact, I do, but I agree the numbers are dwindling. So much so that I no longer see Bordeaux prominently displayed in many fine wine shops, and when I do I am somewhat alarmed that the classified growths — these are the wines most collectors prize — don’t seem to be in great demand.
The reason for this is painfully obvious. The Bordeaux wine trade — bolstered by booming sales in Asia — has priced itself out of the U.S. market. I know I no longer buy as much Bordeaux as I once did, and thus my Bordeaux stocks have dwindled.
Yet I haven’t lost my desire to fill my cellar with great red wine. I have turned to the Killer B’s — Barolo, Barbaresco and Brunello. Given a choice, for example, between a Chateau Latour or a Gaja anything at a fraction of the price, I would take the Gaja every time.
Whether you fancy yourself a wine collector, or merely like to keep a small stash of great red wine tucked away in a closet, the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, and the Brunello di Montalcino of southern Tuscany, are a splendid alternative to the expensive offerings of Bordeaux.
With that in mind, I commend to you a piece written by my colleague Michael Franz, the Editor of Wine Review Online, evaluating the 2008 vintage in Barolo. "All’s Well That Ends Well: Barolo 2008" is chock full of great wines that can be had for far less than you would pay for Bordeaux of comparable quality.
And with the money you save, you can buy more wine!
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