I can remember a time when wines from California’s Mendocino County were little more than a big yawn. I can’t quite pinpoint the exact moment the tide turned, but Mendo wines are boring no more.
Bonterra, for example, has led the charge in California toward organic, biodynamic and sustainable agriculture. And Bonterra, a division of the Fetzer family of wines, was out front on the issue long before it became fashionable.
Then there’s Mendocino County’s Anderson Valley gang. In this snippet of highlights from the 2008 San Diego International Wine Competition, staged April 19-20 at the Westgate Hotel in downtown San Diego’s Gaslamp District, I’ve focused on Greenwood Ridge, Handley and Husch only because I’m tackling analysis of the impressive performances somewhat in alphabetical order
Greenwood Ridge took five medals, including two Golds and a Best of Show for its late harvest White Riesling, which is one of the best-smelling wines I’ve ever encountered. It’s well-made, too, with tremendous length and stunning complexity.
Handley, which is probably best known for its wonderful Anderson Valley Pinots and Chardonnays, took a Gold for its 2003 Anderson Valley Brut. Handley wouldn’t generally be my first choice in California bubbly, but there you have it. This is a very nice sparkler that wouldn’t be out of place in the company of top-notch Champagne.
Husch won six medals, including two Golds, and demonstrated the consistent quality across a range of wines that I’ve come to expect from this meticulous family run winery.
I also must give a tip of the cap to the Napa Valley’s Frank Family Vineyards, which entered three wines and won three medals, including Gold for its Cabernet Sauvignon and a particularly beguiling Carneros Chardonnay.
Then there was Jeff Runquist, who makes nothing but superb wines in small quantities and makes off with a bag full of medals every year. This year he claimed seven. Big Kudos to Jeff for maintaining a stellar record of accomplishment.
I could say the same for Hook & Ladder, Cecil DeLoach’s reincarnation following the sale of his beloved DeLoach Vineyards. Hook & Ladder (Cecil was a San Francisco fireman in a former life) also bagged seven medals.
Frank Family Vineyards
Gold 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley $45.00
Bronze 2006 Chardonnay Napa Valley $32.50
Gold, Sweeps 2006 Chardonnay Carneros $40.00
Greenwood Ridge Vineyards
Gold 2006 MendoVino Red Table Wine Mendocino Ridge $20.00
Bronze 2006 White Riesling Mendocino Ridge $16.00
Bronze 2006 Pinot Noir Mendocino Ridge $27.00
Silver 2006 Zinfandel, Scherrer Vineyards Sonoma County $25.00
Best of Show Dessert
Gold 2006 White Riesling, Late Harvest Mendocino Ridge $25.00
Handley Cellars
Bronze 2006 Pinot Noir Anderson Valley $32.00
Gold 2003 Brut Anderson Valley $38.00
Bronze 2006 Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley $20.00
Gold, Sweeps 2006 Gewürztraminer Anderson Valley $18.00
Bronze 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek Valley $15.00
Bronze 2006 Viognier Dry Creek Valley $20.00
Henry Estate Winery
Silver 2006 White Riesling, Select Harvest Umpqua Valley $12.00
Silver 2006 Pinot Noir Umpqua Valley $18.00
Bronze 2004 Pinot Noir, Barrel Select Umpqua Valley $30.00
Gold 2007 Muller Thurgau Umpqua Valley $12.00
Hook & Ladder Winery
Silver 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County/Russian River $24.00
Silver 2006 Pinot Noir, Estate Bottled Russian River Valley $25.00
Silver 2006 Pinot Noir, Third Alarm Reserve, Estate Bottled Russian River Valley $30.00
Bronze 2005 Zinfandel, Third Alarm, Gambogi Ranch, Reserve Russian River Valley $30.00
Bronze 2006 Chardonnay, Estate Bottled Russian River Valley $17.00
Bronze 2007 Gewürztraminer Russian River Valley $16.00
Silver 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Estate Bottled Russian River Valley $22.00
Husch Vineyards
Gold 2007 Chenin Blanc, La Ribera Vineyards Mendocino $11.00
Bronze 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Mendocino $21.00
Silver 2006 Pinot Noir Anderson Valley $23.00
Gold, Sweeps 2007 Muscat Canelli, La Ribera Vineyards Mendocino $14.00
Silver 2006 Chardonnay Mendocino $15.00
Bronze 2006 Gewürztraminer Anderson Valley $14.00
Jeff Runquist Winery
Gold 2006 R Barbera, Cooper Vineyard Amador County $24.00
Silver 2006 R Cabernet Franc, Salman Vineyard Clarksburg $20.00
Bronze 2006 R Primitivo, Nostro Vino Vineyard Amador County $26.00
Bronze 2005 R Syrah Paso Robles $24.00
Bronze 2004 R Syrah, Reserve, Three Way Vineyard Paso Robles $40.00
Gold, Sweeps 2006 Z Zinfandel, Massoni Ranch Amador County $24.00
Bronze 2005 R Zinfandel, Nostro Vino Vineyard Amador County $24.00
PHOTO: Milla Handley
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