The family members with whom I celebrate Thanksgiving these days drink only red wine. They will politely sip a flute of sparkling wine, for the sake of celebration and to humor me, yet they can’t wait to pull the corks on some sturdy red wines with the meal; that’s when they really get down to wine-drinking business. They don’t care if the Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot clobbers their palates; they drink what they like, and don’t worry about whether the wine complements the food.
Personally, I prefer white wines for turkey and the trimmings — in particular, Rieslings, Gewurztraminers, Pinot Blancs and light-handed Viogniers — and rosé still wines on the dryer side, made from Grenache, Pinot Noir, Syrah and other red grapes.
But since Mom and Dad host the Thanksgiving meal, I’m called upon to provide the hearty red wines they expect. I typically bring a bottle each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel, yet I also perform a selfish act: I open a couple bottles of rosé or blanc de noirs sparkling wine. Everyone has a splash of bubbly during happy hour, and I continue to enjoy the fizz throughout the meal, leaving the heavy reds to everyone else. We all push away from the table happy.
Rosé and blanc de noirs bubblies are perfect with roasted turkey, stuffing and cranberry sauce, and don’t clash with my favorite Thanksgiving dish — mashed potatoes — nor yams or butternut squashes. The berry/cherry — even cranberry — flavors of sparkling pink wines are great companions for the smorgasbord of holiday food flavors, their weight is enough to handle food, and the effervescence cleanses the palate for another bite.
I also like to drink American on Thanksgiving, so that means no Champagne, Cava, Prosecco or other non-native sparkling wines. There are so many great bubblies produced in the U.S., that there is no reason to venture outside the States for satisfaction on this most American of holidays.
Domaine Chandon’s California Rosé is a beauty — full-flavored yet elegant. It has a suggested retail price of $22, yet I purchased a bottle at a chain grocery store last week for just $13. Roederer Estate in Mendocino County’s Anderson Valley produces a truly fine non-vintage Brut Rosé each year, and the current bottling ($27, sometimes discounted) has vibrancy and a subtle note of yeastiness that comes from Champagne-style production methods and aging.
The same can be said for Schramsberg’s 2007 North Coast Brut Rosé ($40), which offers a bit more complexity and generosity than the Roederer, though at an additional cost. I love it nonetheless. Schramberg’s second-label, non-vintage Mirabelle Brut Rosé, sells for $27, and while not as layered as the North Coast bottling, is bright and rewarding.
New Mexico’s Gruet Winery Blanc de Noirs ($14) is delicious for its wild raspberry character and biscuity complexity. It’s widely distributed, and a tremendous value in methode champenoise sparkling wine. So is Mumm Napa’s Brut Rosé Napa Valley ($22, often discounted), which is crisp and refreshing in its strawberry flavors and brisk acidity.
Keep in mind that these bubblies also elevate Thanksgiving leftovers to new heights. Reserve a bottle — or a partial one — for the day after the holiday.
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