I have just returned from more than three weeks in France, the last week tasting the primeurs presentation of the 2013 vintage of Bordeaux. My report is here.
On a happier note, I renewed my acquaintance with Chateau Siran, an AOC Margaux that was left out of the Medoc classification of 1855. I tasted both the 2009 and 2010 over the course of a week in Bordeaux and marveled that both of these superb vintages, where available in the United States, retail for less than $40 a bottle.
Given where Bordeaux prices have gone, that’s a stunning price. I note in my primeurs report that Siran also made one of the better wines in this cursed vintage.
As did Prieure-Lichine, always near the top of my list when I look at value for the money in Bordeaux.
There is an undercurrent of discontent in Bordeaux these days, for the rich seem to be getting richer and chateaux without so much cache continue to struggle. Chateau Pavie and Angelus, for example, unveiled new cellars this year and it’s easy to see where all that Chinese money went.
But everyone wonders if that bubble is about to burst. The Chinese presence at primeurs 2013 seemed diminished, and there is word on the street that the government is doing its best to discourage lavish gifts, such as expensive Bordeaux, in the course of doing business.
And if the Chinese market for Bordeaux continues to soften, would this necessarily bring Bordeaux back to earth? That’s the question. In the meantime, when I need a superb Bordeaux at a reasonable price, give me Siran or Lichine.
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