Today’s wine consumer is often criticized for having a short attention span. The claim is that wine drinkers are no sooner onto something new then they are thirsting for the next wine adventure. Well, if you are searching for a wine adventure (perhaps looking ahead to Valentine’s Day?) look no further: Bagrationi sparkling wines from Georgia have arrived. And, y’all, that’s the country of Georgia!
JSC Bagrationi was founded in 1937 in Tibilisi, Georgia and today
produces its best Reserve and Royal Cuvee sparkling wines by the classic methode champenoise and its regular Brut and Extra Dry by the Charmat method which the Georgians call “reservoir method.” The Brut and Extra Dry are moderately priced at $12.99, the Reserve at $24.99 and the Royal Cuvee is priced at $34.99. Bagrationi sparkling wines are exported within Eastern Europe to Ukraine, Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia, plus Germany, South Korea and now the United States.
Conditions for grape growing are ideal in Georgia, with the Caucasus Mountains to the north blocking frigid continental air, while warm air is drawn from the Black Sea in the south. Records show that viticulture in Georgia dates back 5,000 years and that by the 6th Century B.C. wine was being exported to Greece and Persia. Images of the iconic Mother of Georgia shows her left hand holding a wine drinking bowl offered to friends and her right hand gripping a sword for enemies. Although the present Bagrationi winery dates only from the early 20th century, a descendent of Georgian king Ivane Bagrationi-Mukhranelli was making bottle-fermented sparkling wines in 1882, a connection that allows for “Georgian Royal Tradition” on the labels.
In 2002 a national wine law was passed bringing vineyard and winery practices up to international standards. Besides modernizing wineries, more attention was placed on microclimates and specific growing regions such as Imereti, Kakheti and Kartli where the winery is located. Some wine regions, other than Champagne, mix local varieties with traditional grapes like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Bagrationi sparkling wines are made from local grapes, with unfamiliar names for most wine drinkers, such as Chinebuli, Mstvane and Tsitsaka.
Bagrationi NV Country of Georgia, Classic Brut ($13) has a brilliant pale gold color and lively fine bubbles. The floral-citrus aroma is low intensity and the fruity flavors are nicely balanced with brisk acidity and a touch of sweetness, leading to a medium clean finish. Bagrationi NV Country of Georgia, Classic Extra Dry ($13) has a brilliant light gold color and medium bubbles. The nose is floral with candied notes, while the flavors are more fruity and citrus. The residual sweetness is 2% but the wine tastes only slightly sweeter than the Classic Brut. Both the Classic Brut and Classic Extra Dry are made by the Charmat bulk process.
Bagrationi’s top-end Reserve and Royal Cuvee sparklers are produced by the classic Champagne method of in-the-bottle fermentation. Bagrationi 2007 Country of Georgia, Reserve ($25) is a blend of three native grapes and finished with just under 1% residual sugar. It has a light gold color, pinpoint bubbles and a deep slightly muted stone fruit aroma with subtle yeast notes. The ripe peach flavors carry a hint of bitterness while the wine finishes dry with a good mousse. Bagrationi 2007 Country of Georgia, Royal Cuvee ($35) is produced solely from the Chinuri grape. Visually, the pinpoint silvery bubbles in brilliant light gold are very appealing. Mild toasted bread, citrus and floral aromatics lead to dry, fruity flavors with light yeasty notes. The finish is short and dry. It is a distinctly styled sparkling wine priced to compete with non-vintage Champagne and top-end California sparkling wine.
These very tasty wines are not mere curiosities. Let’s hope we see more Georgian wines on our shores during 2010.
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