In my Creators Syndicate column this week (available Wednesday) I take a look at some of the value collectibles from the superb 2009 vintage in Bordeaux.
The excellent 2009 vintage will most likely be priced at 2005 levels (a great vintage of comparabe quality) when futures prices begin to leak out this week and next. The Bordeaux trade expects the Chinese to take a strong position in the ’09 Primeurs market, thus cushioning any sting that might come from American buyers reluctant to risk precious capital in a down economy that is proving resistant to luxury wines.
My definition of affordable is $50 or less. I am basing my projected prices here on what I can find on the internet about the 2005 vintage, or the most recent vintage available in the U.S.
Money being no object, I still wouldn’t buy the First Growths. They are far and away too expensive for my financial sensibilities. But I’d be hunkering down on the likes of Chateau Palmer, Pichon Lalande and Troplong Mondot.
As the week progresses I will post tasting notes and ratings from my week at Bordeaux Primeurs 2009. The following, however, are the best value bets as I see it today.
HAUT-MEDOC
Chateau Lamarque (91-94). Found the 2005 for $33.69 on the internet. Pretty nose, with notes of floral and chocolate. Spicy. Lovely mouthfeel. Ripe fruit. Aromas of cassis and blackberry. Rich through mid-palate. Nice finish.
Chateau Belgrave (91-94). Internet price was $40 for the 2005. Floral, black currant nose. Good palate weight and density. Excellent length. Fine, integrated tannins.
Charteau Latour-Carnet (92-95). Internet price for 2005 $49.99. Nose of violets and black fruits. Spicy. = Sweet fruit aromas. A crowd-pleaser. Good density and weight on the palate. Packed with fruit. Fine, well integrated tannins. Should age superby.
Chateau Camensac (92-95). Internet price for 2007 $23. Could be one of the great value wines of the vintage. Lovely wine. Full and rich on the palate, with ripe black-fruit aromas. Well balanced. Good length. Find tannins. Complete in every way.
PAUILLAC
Chateau Croizet-Bages (93-96). Internet price for 2005 was $42. Violets on the nose. Intensely floral. Wonderful mouthfeel. Good complexity. Black fruit aromas. Blackberry, cassis. Rich and full-bodied, but elegant, fine tannins. Strikes a beautiful balance between power and elegance.
Chateau Lynch-Moussas (92-95). Internet price was $45 for 2005. Ripe black fruits, sweet fruit core, blackberry and blueberry fruit. fine, elegant tannins. Very classy.
Chateau Clerc-Milon (91-94). Internet price was $41 for 2008. This is the highest rating I have ever given this chateau. Nose of ripe cassis. Fat and juicy. Fine tannins. Huge but in balance. Sweet core, with layers and textures that give it tremendous complexity. Very nice in the bigger, riper style.
SAINT-ESTEPHE
Chateau Phelan-Segur (90-93). Internet price was $29 for 2008. Floral and grapey on the nose. Hard tannins, but with plenty of flesh. Fresh tasting. Middle palate is weak, but likely to flesh out with age, and the finish is nice.
Chateau Lafon-Rochet (94-97). Internet price was $45 for 2005. A stunning wine with fine, firm tannins. Dense dark fruited aromas. Layered complexity. Well balanced. A wine that will need time, but very classy and elegant. Very ripe without being jammy. Beautifully done.
MARGAUX
Chateau Siran (91-94). Internet price was $35 for 2005. This is a cru Bourgeois (formerly classified Cru Exceptionnel) Margaux that is vastly undervalued. Very pretty fruit, with notes of black plum. Fine, supple tannins, plenty of flesh, but still elegant. Very nice. Good minerality.
GRAVES
Chateau Chantegrive (91-94. Internet price was $20 for 2005. Nose of violets, plums. Good palate weight and density. Wine is packed with fruit. Raspberry, blackberry and currants. Well integrated, fine tannins. Complex and sophisticated, very suave.
PESSAC-LEOGNAN
Chateau Ferrande (92-95). Internet price was $24 for 2005. Sweet fruit at the core. Spicy and floral, with good density and palate weight. Well integrated tannins. Should cellar very well.
Domaine de Chevalier (95-98). Internet price was $43 for 2008. Fresh fruit nose, slightly spicy and floral. Exceptional mouthfeel, and showing layered complexity. Texture in the mouth is elegant and refined. Good acid/sugar/alcohol balance. Simply outstanding wine. Excellent length.
Chateau de France (91-94). Internet price was $23 for 2005. Rich and ripe on the palate, though not jammy. Layers of red and black fruits. Fine but firm tannins. Outstanding aging potential.
Chateau Haut-Bergey (93-96). Internet price was $40 for 2005. Lovely nose of blueberry and plum, with hints of spice and floral. Good concentration. Bright, focused fruit on the palate, with a dominant blueberry note. Fine, well-integrated tannins. Exceptional potential.
Chateau Olivier (92-95). Internet price was $35 for 2005. Showing bright red and black fruits. Sweet fruit core. Plenty of flesh. Juicy, with firm tannins and good acid. Potential to age is outstanding.
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