Among the most impressive aspects of "Riesling Rendezvous" (the remarkable recent Riesling symposium recently co-hosted by Chateau Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen) was that the international dimension was not merely a matter of participation, but also performance.
Based on preconceptions, one might have imagined that the
proceedings would be dominated in terms of excellence by the wines of Germany, Alsace and Austria, with Rieslings from elsewhere making more or less creditable showings and being patted patronizingly on the head by the European aristocracy. Or perhaps some New World Rieslings would show well enough, but only young wines that could rely on the grape’s inherent juiciness and precocious charm.
But that is simply not what happened. New World wines showed very strongly, and several entrants from North America were particularly impressive. An especially notable case in point was observable in a tasting that showcased pairs of wines including producer’s current release alongside the same wine from a vintage that was 10 or more years old. One of the most striking wines in the lineup was the Cave Spring Dry Riesling from 2000, which remains remarkably fresh and energetic. It retains lovely floral aromas and primary fruit notes, but has also broadened in palate feel over the years, with a persistent finish that is focused by bright acidity and accented with wonderful notes of marmalade, minerals and spices.
Other stellar New World performers at Riesling Rendezvous include the following wines, each of which earned at least 90-point scores from me during blind tastings:
Jim Barry, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling “The Florita” 2005
Chehalem, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Dry Riesling Reserve 2008
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) Dry Riesling 2008
Efesté, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Evergreen” 2008
Eroica, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling 2008
Framingham, Marlborough (New Zealand) Riesling “Classic” 2009
Cave Spring, Beamsville Bench (Niagara Peninsula) Riesling CSV 2006
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