One of the attributes I admired most about the winemaker Craig Williams during his long reign at Joseph Phelps Vineyards was his reluctance to accept the status quo.
Phelps, of course, was famous for Insignia, the iconic Bordeaux-style blend that came to be synonymous with excellence in American wine. Despite the insatiable demand for Insignia and heaps of glowing accolades, Williams was never satisfied. He always thought he could do better.
Over the years the team at JPV spared no expense to source the finest fruit in its quest to upgrade Insignia. That level of dedication is common in the wine business, where the passion for quality runs deep. Your life’s work is right there in a bottle, for all to judge.
So I wasn’t all that surprised when Randall Grahm, a winemaker I’ve respected and admired for nearly a quarter-century, suggested over lunch that he still had much work to do at Bonny Doon.
Grahm’s wines have always been aces in my book. For one thing, his winemaking style is one that appeals to me. His wines show great respect for the fruit, but they are not fruit bombs. There are elements of earth and minerals, and juicy acidity. They cellar well and are fairly priced.
Yet Randall’s not satisfied. He believes he can do better. Read more about this in this in my Creators Syndicate column here.
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