Ed McCarthy’s Picks for Thanksgiving

Nov 24, 2009 | Blog

[WRO Readers:  We’ll be publishing Thanksgiving wine recommendations from our WRO contributors in this space almost every day until the holiday–so stay tuned!  Michael Franz]

Everybody’s favorite holiday is a time to get together with loved ones and friends to give thanks for what we have.  In my case, I usually gather with just a few close family members, and I tap my own cellar for special wines.  But I will also recommend more affordable wines that I would buy if I were getting together in a large family/friends setting.

I always begin every festive occasion with Champagne, and Thanksgiving is as festive as it gets.  With appetizers and first courses, I start with a good Blanc de Blancs Champagne, such as one from Deutz, Pol Roger, Bruno Paillard, or Louis Roederer; Bruno Paillard’s is particularly dry.

I’ll often go with a second bottle of Champagne to continue with first courses. I particularly recommend Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Reserve, Gosset’s Grande Reserve, or Bollinger’s Special Cuvée.

If I were providing a less expensive option for large gatherings, I’d go with a California brut; the non-vintage Roederer Estate is excellent, and a great buy at under $25.  If you plan to begin your Thanksgiving dinner with Italian antipasti, consider Prosecco, a tasty, well-priced bubbly (most under $20) that pairs so well with this food.

For your main course, whether it’s turkey, duck, or pork, I’d go with white Burgundy and red Burgundy; some will prefer the white, others the red, but both match up well.  Many decent white and red Burgundies are available for under $35, especially those from the Côte de Beaune.  A simple Bourgogne Blanc or Bourgogne Rouge from a top producer, such as Domaine Leflaive or A & P de Villaine, would be excellent.

An alternative to red Burgundy could be a good California Pinot Noir, such as one from Hartford Court, Williams Selyem, or Littorai.  These producers–all from Russian River Valley in Sonoma–make outstanding, well-balanced Pinot Noirs that are not overly fruity.

Some of my colleagues will mention Beaujolais, red Zinfandel, Riesling, or Gewürztraminer to accompany turkey, but I don’t think that any of these wines pair well with the bird.  But that’s my palate; we’re all different.

I like to end the dinner with tawny port (doesn’t need decanting) or a good Madeira.  The Madeira would go especially well with pumpkin pie.  The port would be excellent with nuts, cheese, or chocolate.

This column is making me hungry.  Happy Thanksgiving!

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