Clayhouse Petite the Critics’ Choice

May 26, 2009 | Blog

The vote for Wine of the Year is the high point at the end of the long Critics Challenge International Wine Competition weekend. This year, the sixth for the Critics Challenge, was no exception.

We had Best of Show winners from five broad categories — sparkling, rose, red, white and dessert — lined up for the vote and, as usual, there was a tete de cuvee Champagne blocking the path of the other four contenders.

Tetes de cuvee Champagnes have won the Wine of the Year award three times in the previous five Challenges, and one would prove formidable again this year.

So it was somewhat of a surprise that the 2000 Perrier-Jouet Fleur de Champagne ($139) was nudged in a close vote. What was stunning about the outcome was the fact that a Petite Sirah — the 2006 Clayhouse Petite Sirah — prevailed. This $25 red from Paso Robles won a number of converts in the process, inspiring one judge to comment: “I wouldn’t buy Petite Sirah on a bet, but I loved that wine.”

Count me among those who don’t have a strong affection for Petite Sirah, the big, bold, tannic California red that has developed something of a cult following in recent years. I’ve always liked the Ridge Petite, but have had a rocky relationship with others.

I found the Clayhouse an exception to the rule, and was very impressed by its bright berry flavors and supple (all things are relative, so I say supple within the context of a Petite Sirah discussion) tannins.

The Perrier-Jouet, of course, was the combination of power and elegance you would expect from a prestige Champagne. Others in the final vote included the 2008 La Cereza Viognier ($25) from Temecula; the 2008 Navarro Rose ($16.50) from Medocino; and the 2007 Navarro Cluster Select Late Harvest Riesling ($59), also from Mendocino,

It’s worth noting the Navarro Cluster Select also took Best of Show Dessert at the 2009 Monterey Wine Competition.

Click here for full results of the 2009 Critics Challenge. Judges’ comments on the winning wines will be added as quickly as they can be edited for spelling and grammar.

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