Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (California) Pinot Noir Tobias Glen 2005 ($100): I’m sure it’s a cliché to compare the experience of tasting an older bottle of wine that was recently re-discovered at the back of the cellar to that of running into an old friend but, cliché or not, that was my experience recently. The Merry Edwards 2005 Tobias Glen Pinot Noir that I uncovered tucked away in a dim corner has held up very well over the years.
Now, after being carefully poured into a glass its appearance was really not all that different from the last time we’d been together. Like many older friends it is a tad less vigorous today than it had been in, say, 2009, when my colleague Michael Apstein described this same vintage here on WRO as, “…a more muscular version than most of the other Edwards Pinots.” But even after all these years, this is hardly a doddering old red wine. It still has good color and energy, and while it is perhaps less flashy than it had been in its youth, its complex personality still shines through.
Like many older companions, whether vinous or human, this one may need a little urging to open up. Decant it if you are generally comfortable with decanting, but I found that pouring it gently into a generous, comfortable glass and nudging it with a few soft swirls was all that was really needed to get the ball rolling.
By the time I refilled my glass after a fair number of swirl-and-sip moments the wine had become a little less dense in weight and flavor. As it began to fade, its aromas and flavors were less fruity, more savory perhaps, but I still found plenty of pleasure in re-visiting this old friend—especially as subtle glimmers of its familiar youthful personality still lingered on.
The wine and I did not spend a lot more time together reminiscing about the old days, however. As its energy began to wane, it was no longer able to contribute much to the three-way conversation that had been going on between it, myself and the grilled lamb chop I’d invited to join us. But all things considered, this had been a tasty and worthwhile experience. It was also a reminder to look around for more forgotten wines and old friends.
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