Duckhorn Vineyards (Napa Valley, California) Merlot 2018 ($58): Having somehow fallen out of favor with those running the press sample program for this outstanding company, years have passed since I tasted this core product from Duckhorn. (For the record, Duckhorn and its ancillary brands are objectively outstanding, so this is not a case of me being obsequious for purposes of returning to favor.) This 2018 bottling is superb, 
showing excellent fruit that was very skillfully and tastefully rendered after arrival at the winemaking facility.
showing excellent fruit that was very skillfully and tastefully rendered after arrival at the winemaking facility. Substantial without being heavy, and soft without seeming unstructured, it hits a sweet spot that would make it the blind-tasting preference for a very high percentage of people who are convinced that they like Cabernet Sauvignon more than Merlot.
From a critical perspective, the bright acidity that enlivens this is extremely impressive, as is the seamless integration of oak. Fruit notes recalling both red and black berries and plums are wonderfully pure, but this is also showing subtle savory accents that lend a lot of detail and layering for a relatively new release.
Because Duckhorn makes at least four other more expensive Merlots that are designated either by their vineyard or sub-appellation, the fact that this straight Napa bottling is so good is—quite frankly—amazing. I’d have guessed that this wine would be a depository for all the vineyard parcels or cellar casks that didn’t make the grade for some more exalted release, and I’d have been dead wrong.
Even the cork was of the very highest grade (which seems like the sort of thing that only geeks like me would care about—but you should care too, and take more notice yourself about what you pull out of your bottles, especially if you cellar them).
Someday, when I’m less busy, I’m going to need to ingratiate myself to this company, because this is really bloody impressive, and I need to re-acquaint myself with those more exalted Merlots, as well as the broader portfolio. But for now, let’s just say (in Boston-speak) that this is wicked good, and worth every penny even at the suggested retail price, in case you can’t find it discounted. If my score is off, it is off on the low side. 93 Points
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