Francesco Rinaldi, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2008

Rinaldi is one of Barolo’s great traditional producers, whose wines develop magnificently with proper cellaring (I had a stunning bottle of the 1988 of this wine last Thanksgiving).  This one, from perhaps the region’s best-known vineyard, Cannubi (which he labels with its ancient name) is classic Barolo with its magical combination of floral and tarry elements.  Extraordinarily perfumed, the mineral-infused flavors dance across the palate.  The impressive tannins are there but somehow don’t seem out of place and certainly not drying or aggressive.  The wine shows an uncanny combination of great flavor with little weight.  The extraordinarily long finish just adds to its appeal.  I would give it at least a decade of cellaring given my experience with the 1988.