The Chateauneuf-du-Pape style Rhone blend is something of a lost cause in domestic winemaking. There are a few truly exceptional examples, but the majority of what’s out there doesn’t even come close to the real deal. To the list of exceptionals, I would add Jorian Hill’s proprietary blend BEESpoke, a blend of syrah (45 percent), grenache (45) and mourvedre (10) that is fairly typical of the genre. What sets this one apart is its gravitas. This is a serious Rhone-style blend that offers layered fruit complexity and a firm structure despite its fleshy voluptuousness. It’s spicy, with notes of ripe red and black fruits. Kudos are in order because BEESpoke is the exception rather than the rule.
Jorian Hill, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County) 2009
By Robert Whitley