The 2009 red Burgundies are sensational. The extra warmth of the vintage helped the “lesser” appellations, such as Marsannay, even more than the most famous crus, since wines from lesser sites can be thin and acidic in cooler years. Well, this 2009 Marsannay is a hit. With good ripeness and a charming strawberry-like fruitiness coupled with leafy notes, you know you are drinking real Burgundy. Despite Latour’s producing a consistently excellent wine from this village over the last decade, the price has barely budged because it’s still Marsannay, showing that the price of Burgundy is all too often based on the label, not the wine. So take advantage of it. It will transform a simple roast chicken.
Maison Louis Latour, Marsannay Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2009
By Michael Apstein