Merlot has taken its fair share of bashing, often deserved. But there are plenty of distinctive ones, such as this wine, that are easy to recommend because they deliver an appealing combination of ripe fruit notes and leafy, savory elements. Backsberg’s 2008 Merlot has ripe and plumy notes offset by earthy nuance. Not overdone, it’s nicely balanced with polished tannins.
