Top New Zealand Pinot Noirs offer the same lush textures and fruit-forward flavors that characterize California and Oregon renditions, but often without the annoying sweetness that mars so many of the Americans. The Kiwi wines tend to be more subtle and refined, whispering rather than shouting out their charms, and they often come at a very fair price. This one belies its name, as nothing about it seems excessive. Instead, it’s balanced, harmonious, and downright delicious.