Carol Shelton Wines, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Carignane 2016

 Carignane has suffered from an “image problem” for about five decades, often being over-cropped to fill out blends and rarely being used to make varietally-designated wines (either around the Mediterranean or in the New World).  But the tide has turned in favor of this variety, which is now getting the respect it can deserve when cropped sensibly and crafted carefully, as in this delicious case.  Spice and toasty notes derived from wood grace the bouquet without dominating it, and red berry fruit shows both ripeness and freshness on the palate.  There’s an almost ineffable streak of rusticity to the flavors that I loved — not quite savory and not quite earthy but definitely present — and this contributes both complexity and varietal character.