It is packaged in a big, heavy bottle, and it has an intense, golden color and deep, evocative aromas, yet Bogle’s “Phantom” lands surprisingly light on the palate. There is much to like here, including the requisite fruit, a touch of vanilla and a certain creaminess, all of it backed by good acidity and a sturdy finish.
Phantom, Clarksburg (California) Chardonnay 2016
By Marguerite Thomas