La Rioja Alta’s 2011 Gran Reserva 904 is a strikingly seductive wine, filled with contrasts — bold and rustic, yet delicate and nimble. A deep crimson in the glass, notes of dusty books and pipe tobacco intertwine with subtle undercurrents of dried flowers and ripe cherries. As is common in classic Rioja, new American oak provides a vein of rich vanilla, but it’s not overdone; it only adds to the allure of this wine. Chewy tannins and lifted acidity come together to create a wine that feels lush and lively all at once. Drink now or hold for decades to come.
La Rioja Alta, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) 2011
By John McDermott