Virna Borgogno, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2009

 
One of two stunning successes from Virna Borgogno in 2009, this is a wine of impressive depth and dimension, showing explosive aromas of smoke, spices and damp earth that lead to admirably pure fruit notes.  Although it is strikingly flavorful, the wine is really rather moderate in density and weight, which is an accomplishment in the context of the vintage and a feature that will likely make this one of the top performing 2009s at the table.  Modest oak is also a big plus, and this open, fruit-driven, natural-seeming wine is one of the stars of the year.