Conterno Fantino, Barbera D’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) 2011

Conterno Fantino is among the most respected producers of Barolo, and the Ginestra bottling is particularly prized, but this wine demonstrates the house’s excellence at more approachable prices. It shows expressive aromas of both red and black fruits as well as accents recalling fresh meat, damp earth, minerals and spices. Neither tart nor over-ripe, this a classic Barbera that avoids the extremes into which many producers lapse with this variety under the challenges of a rapidly changing climate in the Langhe district around Alba. Once the most reliable of all Piedmontese wines, Barbera has become a dicey choice during the past decade, but this one comes up double-sevens.