Renato Ratti, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) 2011

 The Barolos crafted by Pietro Ratti in recent vintages have been so outstanding that one could easily overlook the other Piedmontese varieties with which he works–which would be a bad, bad mistake.  This textbook Barbera shows terrific fruit recalling dark cherries and black plums, along with fresh acidity and interesting savory backnotes.  The key to its excellence is perfect ripening of the fruit, which provides the wine with plenty of body and depth of flavor without giving it the stewed, soupy character that has become lamentably widespread as winemakers in the Langhe seek size without regard for balance or freshness.  Bravo!