Kenwood Vineyards, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County) Merlot 2010

Kenwood, much like its neighbor Benziger, is a perennial candidate to top the list of most underrated wineries in California. That isn’t to say Kenwood is unknown or unappreciated, for it has been around nearly three decades and won many accolades. Where it is underrated is at the checkout counter, where you can generally ring up a fairly high end Kenwood wine for astonishingly good prices. The Jack London Vineyard Merlot is a case in point. With notes of ripe plum and boysenberry and a hint of spice and mint, this is a remarkably complex California Merlot for the money. It is firmly structured, well balanced and ready to enjoy now, although it would benefit from another two to five years of cellaring.