Many if not most California renditions of Syrah offer little more than jammy fruit, making them tasty but one-dimensional. This effort bucks the trend, being marked by notes of black pepper, savory spice, and an almost meaty undertone, all of which add intrigue and interest. There’s no reason why this grape variety shouldn’t yield delicious, distinctive wines in California; there just isn’t always enough will to do so. Wines like this one can not only delight consumers but also inspire winemakers.
Jorian Hill, Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Syrah 2009
By Paul Lukacs