Bonny Doon Vineyard, Central Coast (California) Syrah 2010

It was inevitable that Randall Grahm would raise the price on this wine, consistently among the finest syrahs produced in California. It’s a steal even with the higher price tag. For starters, it is remarkably complex both in flavor and texture, with outstanding flesh on the palate despite a lower level of alcohol (12.8 percent) than is the current norm for robust, full-bodied California reds. This is an earthy wine, showing hints of minerality and white pepper. The fruit profile leans toward red fruits such as raspberry and red currant, and there is an intriguing floral note. My sense is this wine will age beautifully over the next five to seven years, but my inclination would be to drink up now and hope that someone more disciplined than I might share an older bottle or two a few years down the road.