It’s not every day that I get to taste a sixty five dollar domestic Malbec, and after tasting this wine I’m thinking that it’s just bad luck on my part. As you might imagine, I approached with some trepidation — California Malbec is typically a nice bargain buy, and this seemed a ridiculous overreach. But, as usual, the truth is in the glass, and this is indeed a special wine. The inky, deep garnet color and the scent of vibrant blackberry and black cherry fruit complemented by anise, smoky spice and a bit of sarsaparilla flood your senses. In the mouth, the firm tannin structure supports the huge black and blueberry fruit with spicy oak notes and a crazy long finish that is already well integrated, but promises to reward 5 years of cellar time. An interesting side note: The grapes were contracted by the acre instead of by the ton, giving winemaker George Troquato the ability to drop tonnage and get all the character the fruit had to offer. Bravo! Contains 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Cinnabar Winery, Clear Lake (California) Malbec 2009
By Rich Cook