All too often the third B (Barbera) of Piedmont wines is forgotten behind the more regal Barolo and Barbaresco. But what Barbera has going for it is it’s immediate drinkability. It’s one of my favorite red wines in an Italian restaurant. Sandrone, an A-list Barolo producer, does an equally good job with Barbera. Their 2009 delivers ripe red fruit, an appealing spiciness and the all important lip-smacking freshness from bright acidity. Bold enough to stand up to hearty pasta dishes, it’s not heavy or alcoholic.
