I confess that I’m less enthusiastic about Malbec from Argentina than many consumers seem to be, but this is a wine that I can back without any reservation whatsoever. It is ripe and generous but not overtly sweet, and shows subtle accents of oak rather than the big wallop of wood that marks most Malbecs priced above $15. Interesting savory backnotes and lots of fine-grained tannin make this seem like a serious wine rather than a run-of-the-mill fruit bomb. For fear of seeming to damn the wine with left-handed praise, let me be clear: This is delicious.
Angulo Innocenti, La Consulta (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec 2011
By Michael Franz