Domaine Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2009

 Not all village wines are created equal, which highlights another flaw in the French appellation system.  This one towers above most village wines because of the contribution of the old vines that, for whatever reason, add a dose of complexity.  The earthy, savory aspect is enhanced by the sweet succulence of the 2009 vintage.   Firm but smooth, tannins and bright acidity offset the lush fruit element.  At this risk of repeating myself, you can’t have too many ‘09 red Burgundies in your cellar.  And be sure to include this one.