Las Rocas, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) 2009

 This is a Gallo import that heads a trio of reds, and though it is the most expensive of the three, it is definitely the one to look for.  Made from very old, head-pruned vines, it is a terrific expression of Garnacha, showing excellent depth and flavor impact but still some primary fruit notes and real freshness.  The fruit exhibits both red and black fruit characters, with subtle underlying accents of carpaccio, woodsmoke and spices.  A superior wine for grilled meats ranging from chicken to lamb.  For as much as I admire the path-breaking work of importers specializing in Spain, I must say this was quite a coup for Gallo.