Maison Joseph Drouhin, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2008

 Laurent Drouhin, one of the principals of the house, says that his father believes the 2008 Chablis are the “best of his lifetime,” because of the ideal weather during the growing season and their biodynamic farming.  Producers have a tendency to praise the current vintage–even when it’s not deserved–because that’s what’s in the cellar ready for sale.  But in this case, the praise is deserved.  Drouhin’s 2008 white Burgundies, especially their Chablis bottlings, are superb across the board.  Their Vaudésir has more power than the highly regarded Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos (previously reviewed), yet retains the distinctive flintiness of Chablis.  Its length and balancing vivacity is extraordinary.  Plan to drink it over the next year or two before it closes up or, like other Grand Cru white Burgundies, cellar it for 5-10 years.  While not cheap, the Grand Cru of Chablis remain Burgundy’s most under-priced wines.